If the Lauteret bottling is a lovable puppy dog of a wine, the 2018 Saint Joseph Les Coteaux is a veteran bird dog—cool, taut and contained, with coiled energy and terrific poise. Scents of cedar and crushed stone appear on the nose alongside hints of mint, black cherries and cassis. It's medium to full-bodied and sleek on the palate, with a lithe musculature and a graceful movement as it eases into a long, cool finish.